The Cuisine of The Dordogne

Sarlat is the capital of the Périgord Noir, so called because of the dense oak forests that are a feature of the region. The traditional cuisine of the region is famous throughout France and features a number of specialities, including the Périgord truffle.

Still impossible to cultivate reliably, this tuber grows on the roots of oak, hazel and lime trees. They are bought and sold in cloak and dagger fashion at local markets - plenty of cash, used notes, small denominations … you know the drill.

Although prohibitively expensive now, there was a period in the 19th century when climatic conditions led to a plague of truffles. Throughout The Dordogne valley vineyard owners had to protect their vines with deep trenches to prevent truffles taking over the vineyards. Sadly this is no longer the case, and although the season for the finest truffles is December to February, you'll be able to taste summer truffles.

The second famous Périgord dish is foie gras' literally 'fat liver'. Geese and ducks are force fed vast amounts of maize and fat during a 15-day period which can swell the liver to as much as 9% of their total body weight. These 'foie' are eaten either very lightly fried, or in paté or mousse. It isn't good news for the ducks and geese, but by God it tastes good.

Other duck and geese products form the traditional Périgord cuisine, and local dishes invariably feature duck and goose fat in place of butter. The Périgourdine have traditionally been known in France as 'sans peur et sans reproche' (without fear and beyond reproach), and a French wit (?) once amended this to describe their cooking as sans beurre et sans reproche - without butter and beyond reproach.

It isn't all duck fat and truffles though, there are delicious local mushrooms such as cêpes and morilles, strawberries, chestnuts and walnuts - the food of the Périgord is gorgeous, but you're very unlikely to lose any weight!