The Wines of the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is a long way north for a wine region, but for centuries 'the Garden of France' has produced vast quantities of wine. The only world class wines from the Loire are the imperishable vins liquoreux found among the Coteaux du Layon in appellations such as Bonnezeaux and Quarts des Chaume, but there are wines of real interest and quality to be found by those willing to look.

The first vineyards on its descent from the Massif Central are found in Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre, renowned for their flinty dry sauvignon blancs. Further downstream there are red wine appellations such as Chinon, St Nicholas de Borgeuil and the more prestigious Saumur-Champigny, all made primarily from the Cabernet France grape.

Saumur-Champigny is restricted to just 9 municipalities, but the wider appellation of Saumur is the largest producer of sparkling wines in the world outside Champagne. The history of sparkling wine here is a result of too many unreliable harvests producing thin, acidic wine. Locals developed the method of adding sugar to encourage a secondary fermentation that produces a more reliable product, and the famous fizz. This isn't cheap Champagne - some argue that this is where the 'traditional method' was first discovered, and there are some wines of real quality produced under the appellation of Saumur Brut.

Another appellation of note is Vouvray, once one of the most renowned appellations in France, and now rebuilding that reputation. Vignerons in Vouvray can only produce white wine, and can only use the Chenin Blanc grape, but the variety of wines is surprising. There are bone-dry Vouvray Sec wines, and they range from off-dry to moelleux (not quite as sweet as a vin liquroeux). There are also sparkling wines and most unusually of all, Vouvray Pétillant - very slightly sparkling wine. This method requires a better quality wine to start with, and so a good Pétillant can be a delight on a hot summer day.